I’m going to let you in on a little secret: I don’t always follow the rules when it comes to wine.

Yeah, I know the classics—red with meat, white with fish, bubbles with brunch. But when you’re cooking with green chile, pine nuts, and pancetta in the same dish… the textbook kind of falls apart.

Good. Let it.

My approach to wine pairing starts with one question: What’s the attitude of the dish? Not what color it is. Not what protein is in it. What’s the mood it sets?

If I’m making a smoky chipotle ragu with tagliatelle, I’ll reach for something earthy and bold, like a Syrah from El Dorado County or a robust Sangiovese from Amador. If it’s a delicate dish with lemon zest and grilled trout, I’ll lean toward a dry white with some backbone—think Vermentino or Albariño, not watery Pinot Grigio.

The wine should stand up, not shrink away. That’s my golden rule.

And yes, I break the whole “Italian wine with Italian food” idea all the time. Some of my best pairings come from right here in the Sierra Foothills. I’ve poured Tempranillo from Nevada’s Churchill Vineyards next to smoked short ribs and watched guests’ eyes go wide. That’s the moment I’m chasing.

Here are three of my non-negotiables when it comes to pairing:

1. Match intensity, not ingredients.
   Mild foods need gentle wines. Bold dishes need wines with attitude. If your wine tastes like water next to your entrée, you’ve lost the pairing.
2. Use acid like a lever.
   Acid cuts through richness. If I’m working with something fatty—like pork belly or duck—I look for wines with zippy acidity. Even some chilled reds can work here. Don’t fear the chill.
3. Sweet isn’t a sin.
   Especially when you’re working with heat. A splash of residual sugar in a Riesling or Gewürztraminer can calm the fire in spicy sauces. Just don’t go dessert-level sweet unless you mean it.

The best part? Wine pairing isn’t precious. It’s playful. Sip, adjust, sip again. Every table, every bite, every night—there’s room to explore.

If you’re ever near Reno and want to dig deeper, I’ve got a few bottles stashed away and a few stories to go with them. Bring an appetite, and maybe something to trade.